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3D Printers / Re: Multiple Galvos
« Last post by Macpod on January 22, 2018, 07:33:52 PM »
I haven't played with these scanner head types before. I see that it supports the XY2-100 digital program (which you wouldn't need/want a LaserShark to control). In quickly looking around the web I see that some of these heads support both analog and digital input. One of these might be controllable by the LaserShark. Do you have or can you request a datasheet and pinout from the manufacturer?

Yes, the F-theta lenses are a means to correct the projection plane that is frequently used by engravers/3d printers.

The area the laser is able to draw upon will depend on how far away the galvo system is from the drawing surface. As you move further away, the laser movements will become greater between points. The LaserShark has a resolution of 2^12 bits = 4096 theoretical points*. With a setup that allows for a 100mm printable area that means that each bit shift will move the laser focus by (100mm/4096) = 0.0244140625mm. For a 300mm area these points would be 0.0732421875mm apart

* Note that neither the DAC in the LaserShark nor the galvo amplifier pid loop is perfect thus you will likely not have a full 12-bits to work with outside of a theoretical sense. You will also need to take into consideration "drift" caused by temperature in the LaserShark dac, amplifiers, galvo amplifiers, and galvo feedback components.
3D Printers / Re: Multiple Galvos
« Last post by Beginnings! on January 22, 2018, 11:01:38 AM »

Thanks for coming back to me mate, wasn't sure you would, I have been having a spot of bad luck getting fed back from anybody. Ideally, it would be a build area of 300mm x 300mm, and just trying to squeeze as much res. out of it as possible. Your response to alignment issues, was certainly playing on my mind, would your board drive one of these Chinese scanner heads, or similar?

And I could just add a pimpin f-theta lens like this one:

To push the print are out to 300mm x 300mm? Is scan area the same as print area?

Sorry for the long links, don't know why aliexpress does that.

3D Printers / Re: Multiple Galvos
« Last post by Macpod on January 21, 2018, 11:24:21 PM »

I split your topic to make this easier to track. Thank you for the sketch.

To gain higher resolutions and print size you could do something like this. Already the library contains a feature that will let you uniquely identify LaserShark units using their serial numbers. It may be a bit of a headache to align everything plus account for correction of the projection surface (remember you have to either use optics or software to correct for this!).

Have you considered putting a single galvo on an x-y table and move this to gain more resolution? It will be slower, but it should be simpler to build and likely cheaper too.
3D Printers / Multiple Galvos
« Last post by Beginnings! on January 19, 2018, 11:04:13 AM »

I wasn't too sure that this topic was still achieve, but it seemed most relevant since it is about 3d printing that I have my query. I am just at the beginnings of understanding SLA as a 3d printing option, and the thought  of using your board to achieve this is exciting. However, a lot of the build areas that are possible across all SLA technologies, seems to be a little small, for what I am after, and I wanted to know whether it was possible to increase this using the configuration in the attached picture. Or am I just asking for a whole lot of pain? Any direction on this would be greatly appreciated.


P.S On the drawing I now realise I spelt Galvos wrong, apologies
SX2/CN2 Tachometer Discussion / Re: Reverse switch for tapping
« Last post by Macpod on January 15, 2018, 02:20:18 PM »
I don't think this idea is going to work. The mill is not particularly stable speed-wise at the low end which is not going to be kind to taps. I also don't believe the reverse is instantaneous.

The users who have wanted to install a reverse switch on their mill are using this in conjunction with a boring head run in reverse.

If you need to perform a significant amount of tapping operations you may want to consider purchasing a "self-reversing tapping head". The are large and cumbersome for the mill. Might be best to make the holes (or at least pilots on the mill) and then use a drill press to drill/tap the holes.
SX2/CN2 Tachometer Discussion / Reverse switch for tapping
« Last post by SouthernAtHeart on January 14, 2018, 04:43:19 PM »
I've seen videos of tapping and using the reverse switch for the instant direction change.  Is it pretty well accepted that this isn't harmful to the brushless motor?  I would only ever do this at low RPMs.
Has anyone been doing this for any length of time with no ill effects?
SX2/CN2 Tachometer Discussion / Re: Version 2 Arduino Code
« Last post by Macpod on January 07, 2018, 03:07:36 PM »

In blue the 7-segments are very easy to read. Two customers have informed me they use the 7-segments now vs the power light to identify if their mill is indeed turned off (their machines are in very bright areas). Having worked with OLEDs I would say that they would have similar visibility to the blue 7-segments (red/green are harder to see).

The version 2 of the tachometer does not use Arduino code and I do not provide the source
SX2/CN2 Tachometer Discussion / Version 2 Arduino Code
« Last post by SouthernAtHeart on January 06, 2018, 06:13:05 PM »
Hi, I do a lot of arduino projects/tinkering, and would like to build this little tachometer from scratch.  I see your original code that you first tested it out with on a 16X2 LCD & an Arduino UNO.  Do you have the code you use for the 7 segment kit?  I'm not sure which way I'll go yet, I've worked with 16X2 LCD's a lot, but never the 7 segment type. 
One perk I see for the 7 segment display is it looks like it might be clearer to read.
I thought about using a tiny 8X2 LCD character display, and then I could have one of the two lines display either "FORWARD" or "REVERSE", to indicate the spindle direction. I think an 8X2 would fit inside the existing box in the same location.

ps.  OLEDs are supposed to be very clear to read:  I see CrystalFontz has this one that is almost identical in dimensions to your V2 board, so it would fit nicely inside the enclosure.
LaserShark Discussion / Re: RGB laser control TTL
« Last post by Macpod on December 27, 2017, 11:03:51 PM »

TTL lasers can only be turned ON (generally 5v) or OFF (0v) only. Analog lasers can be turned ON (generally 5V), OFF (0v) or partially on (anything between 5v and 0v). In this sense yes, you can use an analog laser controller (i.e. the LaserShark) to drive a TTL laser.

OpenLase has an option to only turn the lasers on/off too (In the Laser output configuration app, look under Color settings).

If you are asking if the LaserShark will be able to dimm your lasers (possible by turning the laser on/off at a frequency much higher than the galvanometer kpps rate to "fake" dimming), then no the LaserShark cannot do this. Generally if you look at the specs of TTL lasers (i.e those from ebay) they are only rated for 10khz which is much slower than the galvos thus making dimming impossible anyhow.
LaserShark Discussion / RGB laser control TTL
« Last post by ltodd2 on December 27, 2017, 10:32:54 AM »
Ive been wanting to build a simple projector for a long time but cost of lasers stopped me.  I now have an RGB laser head that is TTL controlled.  I have connected it to an arduino and change through colours and just the other night connected up 3 pots to adjust the power via adc and its works very well.  Can this card control an rgb laser using ttl to vary the power?

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